Knit Your Bit

Vintage Red Cross Hot Water Bottle Cover

Vintage Knitting for the Red Cross

You may want to refer to the knitting instructions from 1918.

#7  Hot-Water-Bottle Cover

Hot-Water-Bottle Cover Hot-Water-Bottle Cover

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing to tie around neck of bottle.

Vintage Red Cross Muffler

Vintage Knitting for the Red Cross

You may want to refer to the knitting instructions from 1918.

#6 Muffler

Muffler Muffler

Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches in length.

Vintage Red Cross One Piece Helmet

Vintage Knitting for the Red Cross

You may want to refer to the knitting instructions from 1918.

# 5 One-Piece Helmet

One-Piece Helmet One-Piece Helmet

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added (making 40 on 1st needle).

Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36—36.

Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st needle, making 42 on 1st needle).

Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2 needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.

Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:

* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if knitting, and slip stitch off—pass through 2d stitch as if purling—leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are off the needle.

Vintage Red Cross Service Sock

Vintage Knitting for the Red Cross

You may want to refer to the knitting instructions from 1918.

#4  Service Sock

Service Sock Service Sock

A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.

Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam stitch for four inches.

Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.

For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.

Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15 stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.

Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.

Vintage Red Cross Washcloth

Vintage Knitting for the Red Cross

You may want to refer to the knitting instructions from 1918.

#3 Washcloth

Washcloth Washcloth

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.

Vintage Red Cross Sleeveless Sweater

Vintage Knitting for the Red Cross

You may want to refer to the knitting instructions from 1918.

# 2 Sleeveless Sweater

Sleeveless Sweater Sleeveless Sweater

Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure two inches.

Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet around armholes.

Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together

A Lesson in Knitting

8. September 2008 | Category Red Cross, Vintage Pattern, Hndbk Wool 1918, Knitting History, Knit Your Bit, knitting | Comments Off

#1 - A Lesson in Knitting

These instructions are to help you with the Vintage Red Cross Knitting Patterns.

Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles

The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is sometimes called, to “set up the foundation.” (Figure 1). There are several methods for this, the following being that preferred and generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand, and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through carefully, and you will very soon master the “crossed casting on.”

Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect, except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article where much wear comes.

Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front, crossing the working-thread to hold it in place—or, if preferred, simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly and evenly.

Figure 2. Knitting Plain Figure 2. Knitting Plain

The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the first stitch of each row.

Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch. By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much more rapidly done.

Figure 3. Purling Figure 3. Purling

The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left. Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.

Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch

Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled. This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side purled.

Figure 5. The Double Rib Figure 5. The Double Rib

The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib, * knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2; repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib may be made that is liked, always taking care—unless knitting in rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking—to knit the stitches purled on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling, such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken “check.”

There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch, allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in plain knitting.

Figure 6. Making Figure 6. Making “Overs”

“Overs” (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an “over” bring the thread before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every “over.” If a larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.

To “purl-narrow,” or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. “Fagot” is an abbreviation frequently used for this.

Figure 7. Binding Off Figure 7. Binding Off

To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle, without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip, narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just as elastic as the remainder of the work.

Soldiers’ Angels - 2008 Holiday Season

Knit, crochet, no sew fleece, Blankets of Belief.

http://soldiersangels.org/index.php?page=holidays-for-heroes

Guidelines:

http://soldiersangels.org/uploads/boh/BlanketsOfBelief-Guidelines.pdf

Stitches from the Heart

Reposting on August 4, 2008

The Tuscaloosa News  reports that Stitches from the Heart needs volunteers to knit, crochet or quilt blankets, sweaters and hats for babies.  The items are donated to hospitals across the country.  Call Kathy Silverton toll-free at:  866-472-6903 or email stitchfromheart@aol.com .

(originally posted - October, 2007) -

Knit or crochet Hats, Booties, Blankets, Sweaters for babies across the nation.

Knitting Patterns:

http://www.stitchesfromtheheart.org/knit.html

Crochet patterns:

http://www.stitchesfromtheheart.org/crochet.html

There are even tags and shipping labels you can print out to use for sending your handmade items.

Give2theTroops

30. December 2007 | Category Helping Others, For Our Troops, Knit Your Bit | 0 Comment »

News story, school children knitted for troops

http://www.phillyburbs.com/pb-dyn/news/111-12252007-1461532.html

website:

http://www.give2thetroops.org/



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